The Crash, the Cook and the Mustard

My last column was about a simple vinaigrette recipe I found printed inside a packet of lettuce seeds. If you like vinaigrettes, this five-ingredient recipe might be the only salad dressing recipe you’ll ever need. It’s easy to make, but the ingredients must be top-notch.

I use Pommery mustard —Pommery Moutarde de Meaux —made since 1682 in Meaux, a little town northeast of Paris. My friend Janet, a talented gourmet cook, introduced me to it decades ago. You won’t find the mustard at your usual grocery store; it’s available online or in specialty food shops. You have to hear about it from someone who already knows —this mustard travels via word-of-mouth! I’ve given jars to people who are difficult to shop for because they already have everything they need.

The 343 year old recipe, created by Catholic monks, is a closely guarded secret and the way it’s made is secret, too. Locally grown seeds give the mustard a distinct flavor thanks to the region’s unique combination of soil, water and climate. The seeds are ground on limestone mills and blended with vinegar from local vineyards. The mustard has a lovely coarse and crunchy texture and a robust, tangy and nutty flavor. It’s hot but not too hot.

I was going to say it must be the best mustard in the world, but since I have not tried them all that probably wouldn’t be true. However, when I looked into its history, I discovered it won the Grand Champion award at the World Mustard Competition in 2019. The contest was held at the World Mustard Museum in Middletown, Wisconsin. Now there’s a piece of trivia for you!

The presentation is as charming as the flavor; it comes in a stoneware jar with a bright red lid. I can never throw away an empty jar and often pass them along to friends. The jar gives it a long shelf life; open jars can last a couple of years in the fridge without losing flavor.

I call exceptional condiments and flavorings “flavor bursts”. One little pinch or scoop can take food from good to great. My collection of flavor bursts includes pomegranate syrup, porcini powder, Maldon sea salt flakes, and more. Pommery mustard had definitely earned its place on that shelf.

Pommery is available on Amazon for $14.54 for a 17.6 ounce jar. Trevor, guess what you will be getting for Christmas